Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
